Chong Tee , 84 Soi Sukon 1, Th Traimit, between Hualamphong Station and Wat Traimit. Delicious pork satay and sweet toast. Inexpensive.
Hua Seng Hong , 371 Th Yaowarat. Not too hygienic, but the food is good. Sit outside for delicious egg noodle soup or good-value shark's fin soup; fish and seafood inside. Moderate.
Maturot , Soi Texas, Th Yaowarat. In a soi famous for its seafood stalls, the fresh, meaty prawns and tom yam kung stand out. Evenings only, until late. Inexpensive to moderate.
White Orchid Hotel , 409-421 Th Yaowarat. Recommended for its dim sum of prawn dumplings, spare ribs and stuffed beancurd, served 11am-2pm & 5-10pm. Fairly expensive.
You Sue Vegetarian , 75m east of Hualamphong Station at 241 Th Rama IV; directly across the road from the Bangkok Centre Hotel sign. Cheap and cheerful Chinese vegetarian café, where Thai curries and Chinese one-pot dishes are made with high-protein meat substitutes.