Bangkok Downtown: South Of Thanon Rama Iv

Ban Chiang , 14 Th Srivieng, between Silom and Sathorn roads (tel 02/236 7045). Fine Thai cuisine in an elegant wooden house. Moderate to expensive.

Deen , 761 Th Silom (although the sign indicates that it is 786), almost opposite Silom Village. Small Muslim café serving Thai and Chinese dishes, as well as Indian-style curries. Mon-Sat 11am-9.30pm. Inexpensive to moderate.

Himali Cha-Cha , 1229/11 Charoen Krung (New Road), south of GPO (tel 02/235 1569). Fine north Indian restaurant founded by a character who was chef to numerous Indian ambassadors, and now run by his son; good vegetarian selection. Moderate.

Madras Lodge and Café , 31/10-11 Trok Vaithi (soi 13), opposite the Narai Hotel, Thanon Silom. A five-minute walk off the south side of Thanon Silom down Soi 13, this simple café offers a long menu of delicious food from the subcontinent, including south Indian dosas. Inexpensive.

Ranger Ranger , Mahamek Driving Range, south end of Soi Ngam Duphli, by the Ministry of Aviation compound. Unusual location in a golf driving range, but the restaurant itself is on platforms above a lotus pond. Specialities include yam hua pree, delicious banana-flower salad with dried shrimp and peanuts; some veggie dishes are available. Moderate.

Ratree Seafood , opposite Thaniya Plaza, Soi 1, Th Silom. Famous street stall, with twenty or so tables, serving up all manner of fresh seafood and noodle soup. Evenings only. Inexpensive.

Sui Heng , just north of Soi 65, Charoen Krung (New Road). In a good area for stall-grazing, a legendary Chinese street vendor who has been selling one dish for over seventy years: khao man kai, tender boiled chicken breast, served with delicious broth and garlic rice. Evenings only, until late. Inexpensive.