Bars:
One of the oldest ex-pat bars, The Irish Village, Dubai Tennis Club, off Al-Garhoud Road, is still going strong, with a good range of beers and an outdoor seating area. It faces stiff competition from more recent arrivals, such as Carter's, The Pyramids, Wafi Centre, a stylish haunt of the 20- and 30-something brigade. Minimalist Ginseng, Wafi City, with its mood lighting, Asian-themed décor and first-rate cocktails, is another popular choice. The lowest common denominator is catered for at Rock Bottom Cafe, Regent Place Hotel, Bur Dubai, a rowdy drinking den with three pool tables, live music and a dancefloor.
The new heart of Dubai nightlife is in and around the swish Madinat Jumeirah (website: www.madinatjumeirah.com) complex. A gaggle of trendy bars recline by the water's edge of this expansive leisure zone. Highlights include the buzzing Left Bank and the slightly more upmarket and slightly older crowd at Agency. A new favourite with the local ‘beautiful people' is the Buddha Bar, Grosvenor House Hotel, Dubai Marina, with its stunning cocktails and free servings of pretension. The Fatafeet Cafe, Alseef Road, has good views of Dubai Creek and is an atmospheric coffee house in which to try a traditional shisha.