The best place to look for somewhere to eat in Kyoto is the central shopping district focused around Shijo-dori and Kawaramachi-dori , including the backstreets north of Shijo. Among the plethora of fast-food chains, there are a number of decent foreign restaurants and also several old Kyoto establishments hiding down alleys and among the more expensive names of Pontocho . Below, we've also recommended one or two places on the fringes of this central district where they're handy for nearby sights.
Ashanti , Ledick Building 7F, Kawaramachi Sanjo-agaru. Popular, authentic African restaurant run by long-term resident Ken Kofi, originally from Ghana. Menu delights include Kelewele Fried Banana and Suuya Kebab. Dinner will cost about ¥2500 per person.Tues-Thurs & Sun 5-11pm, Fri & Sat 5pm-2am.
Ashoka , 3F, Kikusui Building, Teramachi Shijo-agaru. Once you've tried a few of the Japanese restaurants below, give your taste buds a workout at Kyoto's most popular Indian restaurant. It's a smart place, but their lunchtime sets offer reasonable value (Mon-Fri ¥900-2000, Sat-Sun ¥1200-2000). Daily 11.30am-2.30pm & 5-8.30/9pm.
Bio-tei , 2F, Higashinotoin Sanjo. Laidback health-food restaurant with an appetizing range of vegetarian daily specials, plus some meat dishes. Count on spending around ¥1500 for a good feast. Tues-Sat 11.30am-2pm & 5-8.30pm; closed Thurs evening and Sat lunch.
Capricciosa , 2F, Vox Building, 44 Daikoku-cho, Kawaramachi Sanjo. Ever-popular member of the cheerful Tokyo chain, selling huge portions of pizza and pasta. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm.
Chikyu-ya , Kawaramachi Shijo-sagaru. There's a faintly hippy air to this bustling, student izakaya , with its shared wooden tables and rug-covered ceiling. Prices are cheap and the food's not bad - standard izakaya fare of small dishes ranging from tofu to tuna salad or French fries, some listed on their English menu. Daily 5pm-midnight.
Chinchikurin , Kiyamachi Shijo-sagaru. Inexpensive country-style restaurant specializing in kamameshi , kettle-steamed rice with a whole range of toppings. In winter, nabe stews or zosui rice gruel make a good choice. Located behind the Hankyu department store on the street parallel to Kawaramachi-dori. Daily except Wed 11.30am-3pm & 5-9.30pm.
Fujino-ya , Pontocho Shijo-agaru. One of the more affordable Pontocho restaurants with a river view. The simple menu (in English) offers either tempura or kushi-katsu (deep-fried pork skewers), with standard sets from around ¥2800. In the summer you can eat on the riverside terrace, but the price of dinner increases to ¥3800. Daily except Wed 5-10pm.
Gontaro , Fuyacho Shijo-agaru. Home-made noodles are the order of the day at this welcoming little restaurant just north of busy Shijo-dori. Despite the elegant entrance, prices are reasonable, starting at under ¥1000 for standard dishes and rising to around ¥4000 for the house speciality, Gontaro nabe . Daily except Wed 11.30am-10.30pm.
Hamac de Paradis , #2/1928 Building, Gokomachi-kado, Sanjo-dori. Part of the Kyoto Complex alongside a café and gallery, this trendy restaurant has bright-red screens and a bank of TV monitors on one wall. The well-priced menu offers Euro-Japanese concoctions like stuffed rolled eel and miso-flavoured beef tongue salad. Functions as a café in the daytime. English menu. Daily 5pm-midnight.
Honyarado , Teramachi Imadegawa nishi-iru. Cluttered but relaxed "ethnic" café/restaurant just northeast of the Imperial Palace. Great for a long coffee break or a satisfying meal. The food's wholesome - don't miss their home-made bread - and excellent value, with set meals around ¥600-700 for lunch or dinner. English menu. Daily 10am-10pm.
Kikyo-ya.com , B1F Regione Building, Kawaramachi Rokkaku-sagaru. Great casual bar/restaurant crammed full of pop-culture detritus, psychedelic tables and zebra-striped cushions. Funky music and cheap, tasty food, from burgers to shrimp croquettes. English menu. Daily 11.30am-11pm.
Musashi , Kawaramachi Sanjo-agaru. Excellent kaitenzushi (conveyor-belt sushi) joint right on the junction, where the cheapest plate (two pieces) is only ¥120. Also does a brisk trade in takeaway bento . Daily 11am-10pm.
Obanzai , Koromonotana Oike-agaru. It's well worth searching out this nicely designed, cafeteria-style restaurant to the east of Nijo-jo for their excellent-value vegetarian buffets (¥840-1050 for lunch, ¥2100 at night). Very popular. Mon, Tues & Thurs-Sun 11am-2pm, 2.30-4pm & 5-9pm, Wed 11am-2pm.
Saracça , Wood Inn, Tominokoji Sanjo-sagaru. This friendly haven in the midst of central Kyoto is difficult to define - a restaurant, café, bar and record shop all in one. There's a definite arty touch to its high ceilings, wooden tables and scattered fabrics, while the menu is similarly eclectic - tofu with tuna and spicy miso, sandwiches, preservative-free wine and home-made cheesecake. English menu. Daily except Wed noon-10pm, Sat till midnight.
Sarashina , Omiya Aneyakoji-agaru. If you're feeling peckish out near Nijo-jo, join the locals for a hearty bowl of soba or udon. Prices are very reasonable and there's an English menu. Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm.
Tagoto , Shijo Teramachi higashi-iru. This welcoming little restaurant is a good place to sample Kyo-ryori without breaking the bank. Try their beautiful koetsu-mizusashi-bento (¥3000) or, at lunchtime only, choose between a smaller bento (¥1500) and a mini- kaiseki (¥3000). Reservations are required for an evening kaiseki meal (from ¥4500). Tagoto's just off Shijo-dori up a tiny alley next to the Takano jewellery shop near the Central Hotel . Daily 11am-9pm.
Yamatomi , Pontocho Shijo-agaru. Another unpretentious, Pontocho restaurant a few doors down from Fujino-ya . There's plenty of good, wholesome fare on offer (English menu available), such as sashimi, oden and okonomiyaki . In summer you can eat on their riverside terrace. Tues-Fri noon-2pm & 4-11pm, Sat & Sun noon-11pm.