Tokyo's cafe scene was revolutionized in the early 1990s with the advent of the cheap chain coffee shop , a process that has only been accelerated by the mass colonization of Tokyo by the Seattle-based Starbucks . For all the convenience of these operations, you shouldn't miss sampling at least one of Tokyo's old-style kissaten , where the emphasis is on service and creating an interesting, relaxing space. You'll pay more, but many of these places, such as Shinjuku's La Scala , have become institutions. The fever for overpriced French-style pavement cafés has cooled, but if you want to hang out with the beautiful people the ones in Omotesando and Daikanyama are still the places to hang out. Just remember to take your time, since you've rented the table rather than paid for a quick pick-me-up.
Teahouses are much thinner on the ground, though Japanese green tea and sweets are undergoing something of a revival, as a low-calorie traditional alternative to coffee and cake. For a traditional Japanese tea ceremony, the best places to head are the New Otani and the Okura hotels , and for pretty settings try Shinjuku Gyoen and Happoen . It's worth noting that while cafés often keep late hours, teahouses are strictly a daytime affair.